1990 Ruinart Dom Ruinart Brut Rose (in magnum)
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92 Points | International Wine Cellar , November/December 2004
($175) Copper-orange color, deeper at its core. Fascinating nose reminded me of a great 40-year-old red Burgundy : truffle, smoke, minerals, earth and a hint of celery seed. Then high-toned, quite ripe and uncompromisingly dry, with iron-like earth, mushroom and tobacco flavors suffused by a smoky, meaty character. Extremely idiosyncratic rose-and I love it! Finishes long and harmonious; shows Pedro Ximenez-like notes of toffee, raisin and molasses on the end, but sound acids give lift and verve to the aftertaste.
