92(+?) Points | International Wine Cellar , January/February 2009
($50) Yeasty aromas of fresh apple, tropical fruits and lemon oil. Honeyed and rich, but with a delicacy to its papaya fruit, this spatlese is kept alive by its brisk acidity. The deceptively spicy finish shows a clear and refreshing slate character.
German vintners and Germany's wine law have often been their own worst enemies, and consumers understandably bemoan the unintelligibility of the labels as well as the mediocre quality of so many commercial-grade wines. It is a shame if this situation acts as a barrier to appreciating some of the world's most distinctive and versatile wines.
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The Riesling grape may scare away some wine novices. In Germany, where the grape reaches its finest expression, labels hew to a rigid, abstruse set of classifications, leaving newcomers with little idea what they may be looking at. Furthermore, many wine drinkers' early experiences with sweet wines from Germany (think Blue Nun), have not been especially rewarding. We say that it's your loss if you continue to fear the...
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