94 Points | International Wine Cellar , January/February 2009
($70; for 375 ml.) Rich golden yellow. Passion fruit, a floral nuance and a bit of licorice on the nose. Pineapple and honey give way to brisk spicy acidity on the palate. A well-balanced, vivid auslese that finishes smoky and long, with an almost salty minerality.
German vintners and Germany's wine law have often been their own worst enemies, and consumers understandably bemoan the unintelligibility of the labels as well as the mediocre quality of so many commercial-grade wines. It is a shame if this situation acts as a barrier to appreciating some of the world's most distinctive and versatile wines.
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The Riesling grape may scare away some wine novices. In Germany, where the grape reaches its finest expression, labels hew to a rigid, abstruse set of classifications, leaving newcomers with little idea what they may be looking at. Furthermore, many wine drinkers' early experiences with sweet wines from Germany (think Blue Nun), have not been especially rewarding. We say that it's your loss if you continue to fear the...
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