94 Points | International Wine Cellar , November/December 2008
($70) Pale green-yellow. Smoky flint and lime zest complicated by blossom honey, lemon thyme and apricot on the nose. Tightly knit and precisely structured, with a spine of lemony acidity lending finesse. The streamlined finish exhibits a cool mineral character. Today this wine makes a rather shy impression: it will no doubt require more time to reveal its underlying complexity, breadth and power.
Austrian wine has rapidly gained in international stature in the past decade, mostly on the strength of Austria's dry white wines produced within a 20-mile radius of the small city of Krems on the Danube, less than 50 miles west of Vienna. The steep, terraced, riverside vineyards of the Wachau, immediately west of Krems, as well as geologically diverse sites on the edges of the city and to the north in the Kamptal, yield...
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The Riesling grape may scare away some wine novices. In Germany, where the grape reaches its finest expression, labels hew to a rigid, abstruse set of classifications, leaving newcomers with little idea what they may be looking at. Furthermore, many wine drinkers' early experiences with sweet wines from Germany (think Blue Nun), have not been especially rewarding. We say that it's your loss if you continue to fear the...
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