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94 Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - May/June 2010
($150; 50% new oak) Full medium ruby. Smoked meat and gunflint on the nose; reminded me of a serious Hermitage. Then dense and brooding in the mouth, with a distinctly wild quality to its intense flavors of raspberry, smoked bacon and gravel. For all its size, this boasts terrific lift and grip, and an extravagant personality. Carrying 15% alcohol with a pH of 3.9. It's also the only wine in the cellar that isn't aged in essentially 100% new oak.