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92(+?) Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - November/December 2009
($65; vinified with 100% of its stems) Bright medium ruby. Very sexy, balsamic, varietally expressive nose offers blackberry, smoked meat, fresh herbs, white pepper and woodsmoke, plus a whiff of eucalyptus oil. Dense and supple in the mouth, conveying volume without weight. Intriguing notes of crushed pepper, chocolate, garrigue and ripe tomato. The wine's tannins spread out nicely to coat the palate. Tactile, savory and peppery on the back end, very much in the style of a northern Rhone wine-and a serious one at that. This should be given a lot of air, or a few years in the cellar.