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94 Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - May/June 2009
($80; 15.6% alcohol with a pH of 3.4; from old Wente clones) Medium yellow. Aromas of lemon drop, wild herbs and honey, with a slightly candied character. Dense and thick but lively, with strong acidity and a floral element lifting the concentrated citrus fruit flavors. The wine's sweetness and silky texture are leavened by its firm acid spine, with a late note of green tea contributing piquancy. Actually rather backward today, with the dry, broad, citric finish showing superb persistence.