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93-96 Points | International Wine Cellar , May/June 2009
Saturated deep ruby. Superripe aromas of musky black raspberry and smoke, lifted by a mineral element; liqueur-like rather than porty. Lush, seamless and powerful, with superb inner-palate energy to the flavors of black raspberry, blackberry, minerals, licorice pastille and smoke. This thick, liqueur-like fruit bomb is huge but not heavy-and classically dry. Finishes with supple, tongue-coating tannins and a building element of graphite minerality. Compared to Melka's practice here, Mark Aubert told me he picks earlier, ferments with only wild yeasts, and racks the wine much less frequently.