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95 Points | International Wine Cellar , November/December 2010
($110; this very densely planted vineyard includes all the Alsace varieties) Bright, pale yellow-gold. Sensational nose combines tangy orange peel, licorice, lemon grass, spices and caraway seed. Compellingly silky and opulent on the palate, with outstanding concentration and precision to the flavors of pineapple, soft citrus fruits, exotic spices and botanical herbs. Perfectly integrated acidity and some unabsorbed CO2 contribute to the impression of sappiness. The endless rising finish leaves the palate vibrating. I'm not yet convinced that all of Deiss's "premier cru" vins de terroir have distinctive enough site character to routinely justify separate bottling, but his grand crus Altenberg de Bergheim and Schoenenbourg, from very densely planted holdings, are consistently two of Alsace's most exciting wines.