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2005 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Cicala
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92(+?) Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - November/December 2009

($186; the first vintage for this wine since 2001, as this vineyard was hailed on in 2004) Good full medium red. Wild aromas of redcurrant, black cherry, tar and leather; this smells tannic but the fruit element expands impressively as the wine opens in the glass. Then large-scaled and firm in the mouth, with powerful acidity currently suppressing the wine's sweetness. There's a boatload of fruit here, but today the wine's mineral and gamey elements dominate. In a very traditional style, and completely different from the Colonnello: more backward and more masculine (Conterno refers to it as "our rude boy"). The serious tannins build with air and currently cut off the wine's finishing fruit.

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About Italy

Italy, like France, offers a world of wine styles within a single country: dry Italian white wines ranging from lively and minerally to powerful and full-bodied; cheap and cheerful Italian red wines in both a cooler, northern style and a richer, warmer southern style; structured, powerful reds capable of long aging in bottle; sparkling wines; sweet wines and dessert wines.
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Nebbiolo based wines made outside the Langhe hills are often lost in the commotion over Barolo and Barbaresco. The provinces of Vercelli and Novarra in the northern reaches of the Piedmont area are home to wines like Carema, Ghemme, and Gattinara. The latter two wines are mostly Nebbiolo, which as traditionally been blended with...
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