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92(+?) Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - November/December 2009
($186; the first vintage for this wine since 2001, as this vineyard was hailed on in 2004) Good full medium red. Wild aromas of redcurrant, black cherry, tar and leather; this smells tannic but the fruit element expands impressively as the wine opens in the glass. Then large-scaled and firm in the mouth, with powerful acidity currently suppressing the wine's sweetness. There's a boatload of fruit here, but today the wine's mineral and gamey elements dominate. In a very traditional style, and completely different from the Colonnello: more backward and more masculine (Conterno refers to it as "our rude boy"). The serious tannins build with air and currently cut off the wine's finishing fruit.