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2009 Bedrock Wine Company Heirloom White Wine Compagni-Portis Vineyard Sonoma Valley
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91 Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - May/June 2010

($20; a blend of "all kinds of things that were planted way back when, but mostly gewurztraminer, trousseau gris and riesling, with some stuff that's almost extinct, like burger and green Hungarian, probably some chasselas and palomino, and so on") Light, greenish gold. Subtly leesy aromas of pineapple, orange rind and pear, with a stony underpinning and a hint of smoke. Quite suave and silky on the palate, with a subtle sweetness to the citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Zesty minerality gives this very dry and understated wine a chewy quality. Finishes with lingering spiciness and echoes of bitter orange and pear skin. I find this really intriguing. Twain-Peterson said that these 60-year-old mystery vines yielded less than a ton per acre in '08.

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About California

It is remarkable that an industry essentially less than a half-century old could capture the attention of the American wine-buying public to the degree that California has. Powerful consumer interest in California wine is driven by two major factors. The more obvious reason is that California's best wines, which come from grapes grown in...

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