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91 Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - March/April 2012
(two-thirds of these vines are 85 years old, the other third about 25): Good bright, dark red. The nose is distinctly darker than that of the village Volnay and Clos des Chenes, offering scents of black cherry, licorice, violet, menthol and bitter chocolate. Then lush and creamy in the mouth, with an attractive high-toned quality to the pure cherry and violet flavors. Shows classic 2009 ripeness but has just enough acidity to maintain its balance. Finishes firmly tannic, chewy and long. Lafon says this one needs a decade of bottle aging. "Most people don't wait," he added. "That's why the Champans doesn't have the reputation of the Clos des Chenes or the Santenots."