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94(+?) Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - November/December 2012
Good medium ruby, brighter than the Cailloux. The nose offers superb lift for this warm vintage: black cherry, blackberry, cocoa powder and pink peppercorn, plus a suggestion of marshmallow. Lush and pliant but with a firm spine of acidity and underlying minerality energizing the sweet dark fruit and black olive flavors. A distinctly Rhone-like animal quality adds interest. At once rich and dry, with a building, tactile, palate-staining finish featuring a saline quality and strong black cherry flavor. At 14.2% alcohol, this has the lowest octane level of this set of 2009s but boasts outstanding flavor impact.