95 Points | International Wine Cellar , January/February 2012
Golden yellow. Musky aromas of peach, butterscotch and cinnamon rise above the honeyed botrytis. Full-bodied caramelized fruits overwhelm the palate, only just balanced by the wine's oyster shell salinity. Succulent sweet nectarine pervades the finish. This wine still needs time.
German vintners and Germany's wine law have often been their own worst enemies, and consumers understandably bemoan the unintelligibility of the labels as well as the mediocre quality of so many commercial-grade wines. It is a shame if this situation acts as a barrier to appreciating some of the world's most distinctive and versatile wines.
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The Riesling grape may scare away some wine novices. In Germany, where the grape reaches its finest expression, labels hew to a rigid, abstruse set of classifications, leaving newcomers with little idea what they may be looking at. Furthermore, many wine drinkers' early experiences with sweet wines from Germany (think Blue Nun), have not been especially rewarding. We say that it's your loss if you continue to fear the...
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