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93(+?) Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - May/June 2012
(from Morlet's best barrels, a wine that he describes as "equivalent to" the Point Rouge chardonnay he made at Peter Michael, where Morlet was in charge of winemaking from 2001 through 2005): Complex nose melds candied lime, fresh hazelnut, exotic fruits and iodiney minerality. Uncompromisingly dry but dense chardonnay with flavors of apple and oyster shell and a chewy impression of extract. Outstanding incipient complexity here but the most closed and least fruity today of this trio of chardonnays. This dense, soil-driven wine finishes with a hint of phenolic character and saline and Poire William notes. For the cellar, and potentially better in five years than the Ma Douce and Ma Princesse.