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93-95 Points | International Wine Cellar , May/June 2013
Full bright yellow-gold. Knockout nose combines lemon, peach, hazelnut and smoky lees. Then tighter in the mouth than the open nose suggests, showing superb density and snap and a compellingly tactile texture. Finishes with electric acidity and sneaky palate-staining persistence. This will need patience. Kongsgaard adds a bit of SO2 to his wines to retard the malolactic fermentations but then does not add any more again until after the following vintage, in an attempt "to allow everything that's going to oxidize to oxidize." This, he says, gives his wines a nutty, leesy, aldehytic character, often with the early gunpowder quality of the wines of Coche-Dury. He practices "a fairly aggressive lees stirring regimen," explaining that the lees essentially fine the wine.