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91-93 Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - January/February 2014
Deep, bright red. Dark cherry, espresso and mocha on the nose. Incredibly sweet, round and full, with an almost liqueur-like chocolatey ripeness. Outsized wine from a tiny yield; in fact, Lafon did not declassify the young Santenots vines into a village Volnay in 2012 because this fruit was so concentrated and scarce. Can't quite match the Champans for vibrancy or tension but there's enough energy here for mid-term aging. Incidentally, following the 2011 Santenots, I also retasted the 2010 and 2009. The former wine is like a baby 2005 and is dominated by its tannins today, while the 2009 showed captivating, liqueur-like sweet fruits and outstanding high-toned intensity. It has the density and length to age, but it's utterly silky and seductive right now.