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90? Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - May/June 2014
Brilliant red. Redcurrant, strawberry, rose oil and pungent herbs on the highly perfumed nose. Sappy, focused and fat-free, offering intensely spicy, mineral-tinged red berry and bitter cherry flavors that show a medicinal quality and a touch of blood orange. Smoky game and floral pastille notes build on the youthfully tannic, incisive finish, which leaves white pepper, allspice and bitter cherry notes behind. In an uncompromising, nervy and undoubtedly divisive style, with no easy fruit sweetness but undeniable vivacity and quirky personality. There's a wild northern-Rhone-meets-Jura thing going on here. While I'm not sure most California pinot aficionados will be down with it, deep-pocketed fans of singular Old World wines might get on board. (JR)