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1998 Ernst Triebaumer Blaufrankisch Gmark
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   97 Blaufränkisch Oberer Wald
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97 Blaufränkisch Oberer Wald Points | Stephen Tanzer's IWC - November/December 2000

Like the above, vinified in old ovals. The clay subsoil in Gmärk is critical for the potential depth and richness of blaufränkisch flavors. This explodes with blackberry and black raspberry. Nice inner-mouth perfume. Creamy and elegant. Long, strong finish of black fruit and bitter nuts. "With ten more days on the vine," says Triebaumer, "this could have been a truly great wine." ($55): From 50-year-old vines in a higher, breezier site, but with southern exposure. Done in older barriques Blackberries and beets. Bitter fruit concentration. Still quite firm in the mouth. Humus and mineral notes in the finish. The '93 rendition is creamy in texture and salty, leathery, cedary and Medoc-like in flavor.

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About Austria

Austrian wine has rapidly gained in international stature in the past decade, mostly on the strength of Austria's dry white wines produced within a 20-mile radius of the small city of Krems on the Danube, less than 50 miles west of Vienna. The steep, terraced, riverside vineyards of the Wachau, immediately west of Krems, as well as geologically diverse sites on the edges of the city and to the north in the Kamptal, yield...
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