NV G.H. Mumm Brut Cordon Rouge

Mumm Champagnes have been prized for their light, energetic stylings, but there was a dark period for this house when things went off the boil, and we remember seeing floor stacks of old, unpleasantly flavored Cordon Rouge being sold at knockdown . Fortunately, the company has found its way back, and the current non-vintaged Cordon Rouge is elegant, in a clean, precise if not extraordinarily outgoing way.

Pure, delicate aromas of lime, mint and biscuits. Bright but round, with brisk flavors of apple, lemon and minerals enlivened by fresh acidity. In a fairly dry, light style. Finishes with subtle fruitiness and very good persistence.

Light gold. Buttered apple and pear aromas, with hints of anise and brioche. Medium in weight, with a silky texture and sweet orchard fruit flavors framed by gentle acidity. Broad and rich on the finish, with a lingering note of sweet butter.