1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil

To many Champagne aficionados, Krug stands in a category by itself. Krug is the only large house that ferments all its wines in small barrels, and its unfiltered Champagnes are rich, toasty and dense. The basic blend (Krug calls it "multi-vintage" rather than non-vintage) includes a high percentage of reserve wine, sometimes from vintages as much as 20 years old, and literally dozens of component wines, with the result that it is a benchmark for the region. The very pale-colored rosé, which also includes older wine, is more often like a great red Burgundy than a Champagne in aromatic character as well as in body. Krug's breathtakingly expensive Clos de Mesnil is an essence of Mesnil Chardonnay.

To many Champagne aficionados, Krug stands in a category by itself. Krug is the only large house that ferments all its wines in small barrels, and its unfiltered Champagnes are rich, toasty and dense. The basic blend (Krug calls it "multi-vintage" rather than non-vintage) includes... more