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90 Points | International Wine Cellar , January/February 1999
Oakier, spicier nose features coconut and cinnamon. Strong, thick and concentrated, but quite dry, with more finesse and structure than the above. Here the acids seem firmer, but I don't get the citric notes shown in years with higher acidity. Dry, very persistent back end. Rather oaky.
A strict trie is done here because healthy skins are a basic requirement for macération pelliculaire.
"Have you ever wanted to make a botrytis Condrieu?" I asked Marcel Guigal's son Philippe.
"Never," he replied. "My father started with Condrieu back when the appellation had shrunk to just seven hectares, after sweet wines had practically ruined Condrieu."