1996 Moet et Chandon Dom Perignon Rose

Hewing to the Dom Perignon style of light, elegant and fruity, this gorgeous wine combines the austere yet bright fruit of the best Champagnes with creamy, slightly toasty yeast notes and hints of cherries in its engaging aromas, and it follows on the palate with an appropriately active mousse of smallish bubbles. It is a bit drier and crisper than its mates, owing in part to a touch of finishing astringency that is not uncommon in the genre of pink bubblies, but it shows quite handsomely with lighter foods and would not be out of place with salmon or foie gras.

Bright, amber-tinged pink with pinpoint bubbles. Deep, smoky and complex, with a kaleidoscopic bouquet incorporating wild strawberry, peach, apricot, chestnut honey and cured meat. A firm, strikingly concentrated midweight with powerful flavors of orange peel, raspberry, redcurrant, baking spice and smoked meat and gentle supporting acidity. Smoky, sweet and long on the back, with a slowly building impression of acidity that suggests this will be a long ager. As usual, a stunning Champagne. Also tasted: NV White Star, 1999 Millesime Rose Brut*.