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1990 Ruinart Dom Ruinart Brut Rose

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92 Points | International Wine Cellar , November/December 2004

($175) Copper-orange color, deeper at its core. Fascinating nose reminded me of a great 40-year-old red Burgundy : truffle, smoke, minerals, earth and a hint of celery seed. Then high-toned, quite ripe and uncompromisingly dry, with iron-like earth, mushroom and tobacco flavors suffused by a smoky, meaty character. Extremely idiosyncratic rose-and I love it! Finishes long and harmonious; shows Pedro Ximenez-like notes of toffee, raisin and molasses on the end, but sound acids give lift and verve to the aftertaste.

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Champagne-making is the highly refined art of blending base wines into a whole that is greater than the sum of its parts. These component wines come from different grape varieties (the white grape Chardonnay and the red varieties Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) and from different villages and vineyards. And because only four or five harvests per decade...
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