1999 Chateau Pavie Saint Emilion

Full ruby. Blackberry, kirsch, espresso and menthol aromas exude a compelling sappy sweetness; leesy suggestions of musky espresso and roasted meat give the nose a Burgundian aspect. Superripe, thick and suave; this is consistent from start to finish in a way that just a couple '99s from the Medoc can match. Really expands in the mouth. Finishes with big but noble tannins that reach the entire palate. Comes across as much less oaky today than the '98, or is it simply that here the wood is more successfully integrated? Compelling sweetness of fruit without any loss of soil character. Along with Le Pin and Ausone, my early favorite for best wine of the right bank in '99.