Some White Burgundies That Should Age Gracefully

Pure but subdued nose hints at citrus blossom and stone fruits. Pure, tight and light on its feet, with brisk citrus fruit and mineral flavors giving this wine a distinctly firm impression. Not a fleshy style but very s... more

Pure but subdued nose hints at citrus blossom and stone fruits. Pure, tight and light on its feet, with brisk citrus fruit and mineral flavors giving this wine a distinctly firm impression. Not a fleshy style but very subtle. This seems already to be shutting down in the bottle. 92(+?) points.

Subtle, slow-to-open nose hints at pear, hazelnut and fern. Suave and fine-grained on entry, then explosive in the middle palate, with a tactile dusty stone quality and terrific thrust to the pear and pineapple flavors. ... more

Subtle, slow-to-open nose hints at pear, hazelnut and fern. Suave and fine-grained on entry, then explosive in the middle palate, with a tactile dusty stone quality and terrific thrust to the pear and pineapple flavors. This boasts excellent structure and verve and finishes long and fine, with highly aromatic floral and mineral qualities. A great showing. 93 points.

Pungent stone fruits, cold steel, marzipan and charred oak on the nose. Large-scaled, tactile and quite powerful, with captivating, utterly pure flavors of pineapple, wet stone and minerals. Wonderfully sweet and smooth... more

Pungent stone fruits, cold steel, marzipan and charred oak on the nose. Large-scaled, tactile and quite powerful, with captivating, utterly pure flavors of pineapple, wet stone and minerals. Wonderfully sweet and smooth on the back end, with a lovely light touch, but the dusty, tactile aftertaste is stony and uncompromising. I’d forget about this extremely backward wine for a good decade. (Incidentally, I retasted the 2004 version next to this one, and was knocked out by the earlier vintage’s almost peppery minerality; its powerful acidity and great cut; and its bracing, juicy flavors of cold steel, lemon and lime. This latest sample rated 96+?.) 95(+?) points.

Very reticent nose hints at wet stone. Ripe and rich, with sweet orange and crushed stone flavors saturating the palate. There’s nothing exotic about this 2006. Impressively deep but very unevolved today. Should be lo... more

Very reticent nose hints at wet stone. Ripe and rich, with sweet orange and crushed stone flavors saturating the palate. There’s nothing exotic about this 2006. Impressively deep but very unevolved today. Should be long-lived for a ’06. 93(+?) points.