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Murphy Vineyards

The 2005 Murphy Vineyards Syrah, drawn from a small parcel set at 2300 feet in elevation near Foresthill in the Sierra Foothills, carried the day at our tasting of under $20 reds. Deeply colored, rich, vibrant and decidedly not 'over-the-top,' it combined California intensity with Rhone-like freshness. Unfortunately, it was the only California red to land at the top of the heap. Despite the economic turndown, there's still little price relief when it comes to ferreting out fine California reds at everyday prices. So, what was the story behind this wine? Why so good? Why so cheap?

Domaine Grand Nicolet

With little relief from the dollar, and mounting demand on the world market, prices for top, small estate Chateauneuf du Pape are skyrocketing. We've spent the last few weeks looking for Chateauneuf look-alikes, wines made in neighboring appellations from old vine Grenache that have the same richness, density and explosive fruit characteristics -- without the $40+ price tag.

Benoni

We like to roll the dice from time to time. But, in 2006, at dinner with Michael Havens in Yountville, we felt like we were counting cards. Michael is one of the true visionaries of the Napa Valley, the first winegrower to realize that the southern part of the valley, with its cooling breezes, was remarkably well-suited to growing Bordeaux varieties and Syrah. He had spent a couple of decades not only identifying the best vineyards, but the best parcels within the vineyards. Over dinner, we hatched a plan.

St. Lukes Estates

We were in a winemaker's cellar in Sancerre when we first tasted St. Lukes. Ten of us were participating in a blind tasting featuring 15 Sauvignon Blancs, mostly from top producers of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume. The wines were all neatly robed in linen. The glassware was Riedel (big ones). We tried to stay away from the fresh goat cheese, but it was no use. That stuff is just too good with world class Sauvignon Blanc.