We were invited to a conference in Bordeaux just before the release of the much-heralded 2009 vintage. Denis Dubourdieu, the Oenology Professor at the University of Bordeaux, took the microphone, asserting that truly great vintages share a number of characteristics. Early flowering. A warm, dry, spring and summer. Then, a few weeks of dry, mild weather before harvest. Dubourdieu concluded by saying that 2009 had all of these components.
We were invited to a conference in Bordeaux just before the release of the much-heralded 2009 vintage. Denis Dubourdieu, the Oenology Professor at the University of Bordeaux, took the microphone, asserting that truly great vintages share a number of characteristics. Early flowering. A warm, dry, spring and summer. Then, a few weeks of dry, mild weather before harvest. Dubourdieu concluded by saying that 2009 had all of these components.
When Robert Parker subsequently chimed in, prices skyrocketed, turning the global wine market on its ear. The Wine Advocate would award 19 Chateaux perfect 100-point scores. Parker went on to compare 2009 with the heralded 1959 and 1929 harvests. Particularly on the Right Bank of the Dordogne, the most meticulous winegrowers had a field day -- none more so than the brilliant Stephane Donze at Chateau Martinat.
Read on to learn more about Stephane and Lucie Donze's decision to abandon promising careers in Paris, opting instead to roll the dice on 24 acres of old vines, all planted on prized limestone soils. Then, learn how the restless mind behind Stephane's broad-rimmed glasses, recognizing the miracle vintage at hand, adopted a 2009 harvest strategy more akin to Petrus than to St. Emilion Grand Cru or the Cotes du Bourg!
The 2009 Chateau Martinat was one of the two most stunning discoveries of our week-long tour of the Gironde. Brilliant deep purple to the rim, the nose is a luscious mix of crushed black fruits and plum, black cherry laced with violets. The attack is at once rich, dense and New World silken, infused with a juicy, palate-coating mix of blackberry and red fruits. Voluptuous on the mid-palate (speaking to the malolactic fermentation in barrel), softly braced by fine, dusty tannins, arguing gracefully for a ten-year sleep in a cool cellar.
Read More