It took us a while to catch up to Bernard Burle after tasting his sweet, concentrated and elegant 2006 Vacqueyras. Not surprisingly, we found him on his tractor, working his Grenache and Syrah vines at the northern edge of the appellation. Chateauneuf and Vacqueyras have had an unprecedented vintage run, beginning in 2004. 2004-2007 offered sweet, succulent fruit, but Burle told us that he has a special fondness for the 2006. "C'est riche, mais elegant. Quand c'etait un cuve, j'avais l'impression de boire un elixir." ("It's rich, but elegant. When I tasted it in
cuve, I thought I was drinking an elixir.")