2012 Ottimino Vineyards Zinfandel Estate Russian River Valley 750 ml

Zin-Master Bill Knuttel: “No More Marriott Courtyards”

We first discovered Bill Knuttel’s single-vineyard Ottimino Zinfandels in 2010, just as the extravagant 2007s were set to be released. Among Zinfandel insiders, Knuttel was well known for crafting rich, juicy, wild-berry Zins in the spirit of Peterson at Ravenswood and Draper at Ridge. But, as we learned at that first lunch at Bistro Ralph on the square in Healdsburg, between Bill’s head winemaking job at Dry Creek Vineyards and his consultancy clients, one of Sonoma’s most brilliant Zin-masters had no bandwidth for sales calls.

Ralph’s pot au feu was memorable, but not nearly as unforgettable as Bill Knuttel’s proposal to WineAccess: “I’ll give you an exclusive on special pricing if you keep me out of airports and Marriott Courtyards.” After one taste of the 2007 single-vineyard bottlings off Von Weidlich, Biglieri, and Ottimino’s Estate Vineyard, we went all in.

Since that first offer, Ottimino has garnered 510 5-star ratings and reviews — next to Matt Cline’s Three, the highest total in WineAccess history for any winery’s under-$20 reds. Still, since those first releases, not a single Ottimino release stood up to the monumental 2007s. Until this morning.

“In many ways, 2012 is a repeat of 2007,” Bill told us. “The set was healthy. The summer was mild and extremely dry. Zinfandel is notorious for uneven ripening. But in 2012 — like oh-seven — the clusters were plump and regularly formed, making for rich, juicy, savory Zins without any sign of over ripeness or raisiny flavors.”

Is the 2012 Ottimino “Estate” the most complex Zinfandel of Knuttel’s storied career? Quite possibly. Much like the great Napa Cabernets of the vintage, this 2012 isn’t simply rich, but beautifully structured and almost Claret-like, a throwback to the phenomenally age-worthy Paul Draper Zins at Ridge Vineyards of the 1980s and early 1990s.

Vivid ruby in color, with mouthwatering aromas of blackberry, black cherry, and black raspberry, tinged with sweet spice. Rich, plush, and voluptuous on the attack, jammy yet wonderfully light on its feet — filled with a mix of raspberry and dark cherry preserves, finishing with excellent persistence and Russian River Valley cut. Drink now for its primary-fruit hedonism or lay this Ottimino classic down until 2020 and beyond.

$38 on release. Just $19.99 today — if only to keep Mr. Knuttel out of airports and Marriott Courtyards.