2014 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape 750 ml

Beaucastel Beauty Revealed at Le Comptoir

The best vintages of world-class wines often get all the glory. But the industry-wide secret is that world class producers make great wines in every vintage. Think of Bordeaux’s first growths—we’ve never really had a “bad” Margaux. In 2015, it was producers in the Rhône Valley who enjoyed a heyday, and as a result, it’s easy to overlook wines like the 2014 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape—the flagship property of the famous Perrin family, and a wine that insiders like to keep quiet about. Why? They want it all to themselves. While the 2015 Beaucastel was our #1 Imported Wine of 2017, earning 4.4 out of 5 stars from Wine Access clients, it was at Le Comptoir, a popular French-style bistro in Marin, where we re-tasted the 2014 vintage of Beaucastel. Poured into oversized Riedel Burgundy glasses, served alongside poulet rôti, the wine was absolutely riveting, full and rich with crushed black-fruit preserves, black raspberry, brown spices, garrigue, and violets. Before the check arrived, we’d fired off an email asking for an allocation. 45 cases. $70 per bottle. See for yourself why world class producers like the Perrin’s deliver world class wines, year after year.

Stephen Bouillez, the Marsannay-born owner of Le Comptoir, a French-style bistro in Northern California’s Marin County, has become a good friend. We’ve gotten to know him over many bottles, can even tell when he’s had too much fun on the floor as his accent thickens, and he abandons English altogether (whether we know what he’s saying or not). And we trust him to keep the wine—and surprises—flowing, and let him pull the corks on whatever he feels is right for the occasion. He’s never disappointed.

When last we dined, unbeknownst to us, Stephen pulled the cork on the 2014 Beaucastel, which hit the decanter just as our menus hit the table, and waters were being poured. When the restaurant’s signature poulet rôti and frites with aïoli appeared, out came the Beaucastel, and—fireworks!

We were reminded why some of our Master of Wine friends brag about back vintages and critic-declared “off-vintages” of great wines that they have stashed in their cellar. Those “off-vintages” from France’s heavy-hitters often prove to be stellar knockouts. For prime examples look at the 1981 and 1983 vintages in Bordeaux. Pauillac book-ended Parker’s 98-point 1982 vintage with an 85 rating in 1981 and an 86 rating in 1983. But we’ve had the ‘81 and ‘83 Lafite Rothschild, and when well-cellared, have gone shoulder-to-shoulder with the ‘82s. One of our all-time favorite wines? A 1983 Margaux.  

Chatting with our good friend, Matt Deller MW, he fondly recalls a comparative tasting of Château de Beaucastel’s 1989 and 1990 vintages. Included in that tasting were heavyweights like Château Rayas and Vieux Télégraph, but the Beaucastel was Matt’s favorite CdP and has been ever since. “I’ve made a point to buy bottles from every vintage because no matter the year, Beaucastel delivers an amazing balance of power and elegance, with an ethereal anime quality,” he says. “A true meditation wine, great with hearty meat dishes, but I prefer it with simple cheeses to let the wine shine.”

Beaucastel is distinctive among Châteauneuf for its high percentage of Mourvèdre. An early adopter of biodynamic farming, they fully embrace all 13 permitted grape varieties of Châteauneuf—listed in our Wine Facts section—and use of massal selections rather than clones in the vineyards, which in turn delivers excruciatingly low yields, and massive concentration of flavors. Once harvested, and the grapes are pressed, the wine ages in 500-litre oak casks with light egg-white fining, but no filtration. The result is a wine of incredible depth, finesse, complexity and longevity.  

While Beaucastel basked in the deafening roar of praise for the 2015 vintage, those in-the-know began stocking up on the dynamite 2014s. It’s not too late for any of us. So, do as we’re doing, and stock (or re-stock) your cellar with the ‘14 now. A great wine, year after year, is a great wine—that’s the secret truth.