Rare Grand Cru from Backyard-Size Vineyard
No hyperbole needed here: The 2014 Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is a blue-chip Burgundy from a classic vintage — and we’re offering it for the best price in the U.S. In his book Côte d’Or, Clive Coates hailed the “immensely seductive” wines of Joseph Roty as “full, very intense, very perfumed and very harmonious.” Harvested from a mere one-third acre of vines planted back in 1885, the 2014 Trés Vieilles Vignes is “seriously impressive” according to Burghound, who awarded the wine an astonishing (for Burghound) 95 points. truly rare opportunity — just 60 bottles for truly classic Côte d’Or collectors.
According to Jean-Pierre Roty, 2014 was a “magnificent vintage of sunshine and warmth," and it served the deep Roty style well. Top wines like the Charmes-Chambertin are aged in over 60 percent new oak, and bâtonnage, more common with white wines, is undertaken to enhance body. The result is a blockbuster Grand Cru that Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate praised the 2014’s “very intense and powerful nose” and the “almost raucous with ebullient kirsch, blueberry and blackberry notes that come storming from the glass.” Tame the youthfulness with a decanter, or cellar for two decades or more.
The ancient vines give exceptionally low yields, which are further thinned by a meticulous triage. After a very cold fermentation, the lees are stirred to enhance the wine’s richness. The famille Roty, who is famously allergic to wine-industry glad-handing, has earned every last shred of respect through superb winemaking. Joseph Roty, until his death in 2008, was well-known for being mercurial, reclusive, and unwilling to play the wine business game. But still something kept the Domaine atop the Côte d’Or pack: flat-out exceptional wines. After Joseph, his two sons carried the torch, until Philippe passed away in 2015. Now, 11th-generation Jean-Pierre helms the historic domaine.