2014 Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes 750 ml

A 94-point Knuckler in Montrachet

After three consecutive short harvests (2011-2013), some ravaged by hail, one by frost, the greatest names of Chassagne- and Puligny-Montrachet grimaced as they took stock of the value of their assets and their revenues. Even as land and bottle prices skyrocket on the limestone hillsides of the Côte de Beaune, it’s hard to keep cash flowing when yields are down 30-80%.

The winter of 2013-2014 was mild and dry, as was early spring. The vines had gotten off to such a fast start that, in mid-April, Philippe Colin considered moving up his traditional August vacation plans, thinking he might be picking Chardonnay when he had hoped to be hiking in the Massif Central. But then, thankfully, Burgundy cooled off. Six weeks of chilly, wet weather set Colin’s mind at ease. First, the vines needed the rain. Second, flowering had been pushed back, suggesting a normal harvest date sometime in mid-September. There would be no need to cancel his travel plans.

When we visited Burgundy in the first days of June, the mood in Puligny and Chassagne was buoyant. Flowering had gone off without a hitch. The Chardonnay set, while not copious, was above the norm. If the weather held out, 2014 had the makings of an excellent vintage both quantitatively and qualitatively. For the next four weeks, right up until June 27th, Philippe Colin’s now-priceless Premier Cru holdings ($2mm/hectare!) on the center cut of hillside above Chassagne-Montrachet were bathed in warm sunshine, all but eliminating any early season risk of mildew.

All was perfect. Perhaps too perfect. And then, as had been the case in each of the previous years, Nature threw Philippe Colin a Phil Niekro knuckleball.

On the evening of Saturday, June 28th, half the village of Chassagne-Montrachet was glued to meteo.com. The other half stood outside on covered patios, or peered out of third floor windows, watching as the black clouds rolled in. When the lightning struck in the distance, lighting up the sky, the Colins, Ramonets, Leflaives, and Niellons already knew what was coming. The first drops of rain splattered cobblestones like peach-sized water balloons. Then, the thunder grew closer and closer as the sky opened up. Once again, a massive thunderstorm pelted the Côte de Beaune, rain and hail ravaging vines. Up to 50% of the potential crop was lost in just a couple of hours!

We first met Philippe’s father Marc in his cellar in Saint-Aubin in 1983, and what followed was no surprise. As the accountants revised budgets, Philippe Colin did as he and his family have always done in such circumstances: He took the red ink in stride and returned to the vines. July was a crapshoot. Some days were warm and sunny. Others were cold and rainy. August turned unseasonably cold with daytime highs struggling to top 70 degrees.

Colin must have shaken his head, thinking back to late March when he wondered if he’d be canceling his August travel plans due to an early call to harvest. Now picking certainly wouldn’t begin until mid-September. Still, due to the very small crop size, sparse clusters were beautifully formed. Like 2012, the balance sheet might be ugly, but if an Indian summer ensued, qualitatively 2014 had the makings of a great vintage on the Côte de Beaune.

The last days of August and the first two weeks of September were glorious. Turquoise skies. Warm days and cool nights. Colin began picking in the second week of September. Chardonnay berries were loaded with sugar, yet acids were vivid and electrifying. The tiny crop drawn off his Premier Cru holding of “Les Chenevottes” was perfectly clean, making for some of the most exquisite white Burgundies ever produced by this superstar estate.

The 2014 Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes is pale yellow in hue. Aromas of ripe apple, mint, a hint of lavender, a sprinkle of black pepper. Plush and weighty, sappy and fleshy in the mid-palate, filled with a “wet-stone” mix of ripe apple, pear, and orchard fruits, finishing with riveting acid backbone and zesty nerve. Drink now-2028.

$110 on release. Just 75 cases were imported to the U.S., the lion’s share on their way to the likes of NYC’s Le Bernardin, Per Se, Daniel, and Eleven Madison Park. After those guys, WineAccess comes first. 120 bottles are up for grabs. $87/bottle. If you’re a Burgundy collector, this NOT to be missed!