Dual 95-point Pinot Noir from Catena Wine Family
- 95 pts Tim Atkin95 pts Tim Atkin
- 93 pts James Suckling93 pts JS
- 93 pts Vinous93 pts Vinous
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2017 Domaine Nico Soeur et Freres Grand Pere Pinot Noir Mendoza Argentina 750 ml
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- Get credited back if a wine fails to impress
Ditching Our Plans for Pinot Noir
Last weekend, we cancelled our plans after an impromptu offer landed in our inbox: An invitation for brunch at the home of Laura Catena, the leader of the Catena Zapata clan that single-handedly turned “Malbec” into a synonym for lush, silken reds the world over. We’ve known Laura for years, so we also knew she probably had something special up her sleeve.
Sitting inside her San Fransisco colonial on Saturday, surrounded by James Beard Award-winning wine writers, legendary sommeliers, and wine pros of all stripes, the topic wasn’t Malbec—it was Domaine Nico, and the break-out Pinot Noirs that are storming the scene and enchanting critics worldwide.
Today, we’re thrilled to debut the Domaine Nico Grand Pere Pinots. This wines is the crown jewel of the Domaine Nico project, which is poised to redefine South American (and possibly even New World) Pinot Noir by applying Grand Cru Burgundian precision to Argentine terroir.
Founded by Laura, Domaine Nico is the first label to showcase the potential of high-altitude Pinot Noir from Argentina’s nose-bleed inducing peaks, which reach 4,500 feet of elevation. That high-altitude provides these reds with tension and grace—it’s a refreshing parallel to their ripe, red fruit flavors, and that exquisite balance is rare to find in reds under $75.
Named after Laura’s grandfather, the 2017 Domaine Nico Grand Père Pinot Noir comes from a tiny vineyard in the Valla Bastias subzone of Uco Valley. Focused and pure in the mouth with mouthwatering acidity and saline notes, while bright flavors of cherry and dried cranberry lead the palate before giving way to fine, tea-like tannins on the finish. Master of Wine Tim Atkin praised today’s 2017 Grand Père as “wonderful stuff” that shows “effortless balance,” in his 95-point review. James Suckling noted its “powerful, focused palate,” and called the release “very attractive.” The 2017 is clearly an ode to Burgundy, the way it plays off the palate with subtle fruit, earthy spice, and a kiss of oak in perfect harmony. And at $30, knocks its peers out of the water.
Domaine Nico has been in the works since 1994 when Nicolas Catena planted Pinot Noir in the Villa Bastias, a sub-region of Tupungato. But the project took on its serious tone in 2008 with the hiring of winemaker Roy Urvieta, assistant winemaker to Alejandro Vigil of Catena Zapata.
Laura confessed over brunch that she could have sold the 2017 allocation back in Argentina in one shot, but wanted this project to be noticed here in the States. We were floored by the overall quality and distinctiveness of the Grand Père and Savante bottlings, which show incredible transparency plus gorgeous fruit, refreshing minerality, and depth on the palate.
Ready to challenge Burgundy with their harmonious balance of fruit, spice, and earth, thus ruby wine from the cloud-kissed peaks of Argentina’s Tupungato district quite happily don’t emulate their peers when it comes to price, but with the heaps of critical praise they’ve already received, we don’t expect their bargain status to last for long.