2018 Twomey Cellars Pinot Noir Anderson Valley 750 ml

The Duncan family of Silver Oak has been steeped in California Cabernet for 50 years. But one sip of their 2018 Twomey Cellars Pinot Noir Anderson Valley could have convinced us that they built their world-class reputation on Pinot Noir. 

Their impeccably made Pinot packs a level of smooth sophistication that competes with California cult wines that retail for $100 per bottle. That’s why Seattle’s iconic Canlis, SF’s Park Tavern, and Michelin-starred wine country temples La Toque and Madrona Manor all list Twomey alongside Grand Cru Burgundies and cult classics like Kosta Browne and Williams Selyem.

Grown in the flawless 2018 season, we think this might be Twomey’s best Pinot Noir effort yet. With its serious intensity, delicate balance of satiny tannins and succulent acidity, and accent of Anderson Valley pine, it’s a one-bottle argument for why Anderson Valley is the new hotbed of California Pinot Noir. Delivered with the soft-edged touch of the family that defines California winemaking, we’ve got it straight from the winery for less than half of what a taste of this crimson-hued Pinot would cost at any of the restaurants above.

“Our number one priority is to make a wine we want to drink with friends and family,” said Twomey’s Matt Duncan to us late last year, as we drove the winding roads from the family’s Sonoma County winery up to Twomey’s Anderson Valley outpost. “We’re not trying to make a Burgundian style or Carneros style Pinot here—that’s not right. Anderson Valley is special for its uniform soils and climate, which produce ripe fruit and vibrant fresh acidity.”

When we arrived at the winery, located just 1,500 feet away from Roederer’s Anderson Valley headquarters, the first thing we noticed was the quiet calm of the place, beneath a perfect blue dome sky, with estate vines soaking up vivid rays from a high sun. But the Duncan family doesn’t do anything halfway, and it didn’t take long before evidence of their deep commitment became clear. 

They’ve taken a long view in Anderson Valley, which is why they’re on their way to a reputation in Pinot Noir as golden as that of Silver Oak Cabernet. It’s a big part of why they don’t simply truck their Anderson Valley fruit a few hours south to their Healdsburg winery. The beautiful facility they’ve built allows them to make the Pinot just minutes from their vineyards, and is integral to establishing enduring greatness in Anderson Valley.

As we arrived in the cellar, Matt introduced us to assistant winemaker Vanessa Hart, who walked us through the sparkling facility, which would be the envy of most winemakers. The site is home to more small-lot 2.5- and 6-ton stainless steel fermenters than most wineries dream of owning. They’re crucial to coaxing out micro-nuances from small blocks of fruit, and therefore expressing the many aspects and varying blocks and clones of Twomey’s Anderson Valley vineyards. 

Grown in an ideal season and aged for 14 months in 100% French oak (a quarter of it new), the 2018 is bursting with beautifully balanced fruit, wrapped in a satiny texture, and invigorated with succulent acidity. This is a first-class Pinot from California’s fast-rising hotbed—and from one of the first families of California wine, it’s a surefire winner.