Iconoclast Randall Grahm made his name as one of the original Rhone Rangers in California. When he purchased land in the Santa Cruz Mountains in the early '80s his dream was actually to develop great American Pinot Noir. This feat temporarily eluded him, but what he developed was a knack for lesser-grown, Mediterranean varieties. These days, though, we're most taken by his fresh, energetic, food-friendly and inexpensive Rieslings with crisp flavors and excellent focus. These are actually now made under the Pacific Rim label. The dry bottlings feature a blend of German Riesling with the estate Columbia Valley Riesling from Washington, while the sweet bottlings are made entirely with Columbia Valley fruit. The Rhone wines are still intriguing, especially the flagship Le Cigare Volant red blend, which combines Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache, and Cinsault.