Think of Crozes-Hermitage, which comes from a wide variety of vineyard sites north and south of Tain, as a junior version of Hermitage--with less concentration, character, and aging potential but at a fraction of the price. Hermitage is the ultimate red meat and game wine, traditionally served with robust, full-flavored fare like T-bone steak, wild boar, or saddle of hare, which can take the edge off the tannic bite of these wines.