John Alban makes some of the most aromatically complex and explosively rich wines in the New World from traditional Rhone varieties. Since 1989 he's worked entirely with fruit from his own superb clonal material, planted on chalk-rich hillside vineyards in Edna Valley. This master of Rhone varieties makes a thick, chewy, dry Roussanne of remarkable aromatic complexity, with stone fruit and mineral elements supported but not overwhelmed by spicy oak. Other labels include Pandora, a blend of Grenache and Syrah, as well as several vineyard-designate bottlings. The wines have the exotic yet varietal-accurate character and creamy sweetness to provide immediate pleasure but have the balance and structure to age. Alban's barrel-fermented Viognier is also fragrant and rich.