1993 was a variable year and a bit of a challenge for growers. It began with a warm spring that ended with rain during the bloom in May, lowering crop size by 20-30% from the start. The summer was moderately cool, with several heat spikes in August and September, forcing growers to harvest in spurts of activity as ripening alternately accelerated and slowed. It was a very good year for early-ripening varietals, white grapes, and Pinot Noir.
It was a good to very good year for the Cabernets and late-ripening grapes, with complexity and moderate depth and power. But, one wonders how much better they could have been if they had enjoyed more even weather conditions. A sound vintage that turned out some excellent wines, but it is mostly outshined by the 1992s and 1994s on either side of it.
Unexpected rain during the bloom period resulted in a small set
Intermittent heat spells
About Havens Wine Cellars
Prior to selling his winery, Michael Havens made Merlot in a distinctly Bordeaux style, with a restrained sweetness and notes of lead pencil, minerals, game and tobacco leaf. He was also a pioneer of California Syrah in a distinctly northern Rhone style, typically showing notes of dark fruits, black pepper and gunflint. Alas, these sophisticated wines are now a thing of the past. In September 2009, Billington Imports, who purchased the winery in 2006, went under. All of Billington's assets, including Havens Wine Cellars, were auctioned off, but the brand continues to be made.
Medium to full-bodied wines with flavors of black cherry, plum, and tobacco
Roasts, hamburgers, other grilled meats
Merlot enjoyed a surge in popularity in the 1990s as consumers suddenly discovered that they could enjoy aromas and flavors similar to those of Cabernet in a fleshier, softer wine with smoother tannins. A wave of Merlot plantings followed, frequently in soils and microclimates completely inappropriate for this variety, and the market was soon flooded with dilute bottles from young vines and high crop levels, and weedy, herbaceous examples from underripe fruit. Many of these undernourished wines were overoaked in attempts to mask their deficiencies. Over the same period, a number of Cabernet producers began picking riper fruit and doing a better job managing their tannings during the making and aging of their wines. The result was an upswing of powerful, satisfying Cabernets that were far less austere in their youth -- and a sharp decline in interest in Merlot.
Still, California's best Merlots, some of which predated the vogue for this variety in the 1990s, continue to be some of the finest examples of this variety outside Bordeaux -- in the same quality league with wines from Washington State and Italy's Tuscan coast region. Expect to find broad, supple wines with medium to full body, typically with aromas and flavors of black cherry, plum, dark berries, dark chocolate, tobacco, and earth, and suave, fine-grained tannins. Merlot also rules in Pomerol, and nowhere in the world does this variety make more complete wines than on the flat, clay-rich plateau that lies at the heart of this appellation.