With no vineyards of its own, Rosenblum Cellars' home base is a giant hangar next to the docks in Alameda. Here, winemaker John Kane directs his focus to Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Syrah...but mostly Zinfandel. They like it so much at Rosenblum that they make over 20 varieties. And although these wines come from vineyard sites all over California, the huge range of Zins are reliably rich and extroverted, typically made in a super-ripe, high-alcohol style. Kane took over in 2009 from Kent Rosenblum, the King of Zin.
It is remarkable that an industry essentially less than a half-century old could capture the attention of the American wine-buying public to the degree that California has. Powerful consumer interest in California wine is driven by two major factors. The more obvious reason is that California's best wines, which come from grapes grown in a benign climate featuring endless sunshine, very warm summer days, and generally dry harvests, and wonderfully fruity, full, and satisfying, and rarely too austere or tannic to be enjoyed from day one.
California is blessed with an extraordinary range of soils and microclimates, allowing for the successful cultivation of many varieties. In at least three out of four years, the best sites produce healthy, ripe fruits that are the envy of European producers in more marginal climates. The other reason Americans buy so much California wine is that California is the home team. Clearly, a high percentage of domestic wine drinkers are more comfortable buying American wines (and not just wines of California) than imports. Then, too, foreign bottles are generally identified by place name, rather than by the more familiar varieties that American wine drinkers have come to know and enjoy.
Moreover, in much of North America, outside the top 15 or 20 largest metropolitan markets, consumers have limited access to imported wines even if they wanted to buy them.
For many, Napa Valley is California wine, and Cabernet is king in Napa Valley. Meanwhile, the Burgundy varieties Chardonnay and Pinot Noir have gravitated to cooler areas, generally closer to the Pacific, such as the western stretches of Sonoma County, the Anderson Valley in Mendocino County, and the Santa Maria and Santa Ynez valleys within Santa Barbara County. Syrah vines have yielded interesting wines in a range of styles all over the state, in regions as disparate as Mendocino County, the Sonoma coast, Carneros, Paso Robles, and Santa Maria Valley. Very good Zinfandel similarly comes from multiple growing areas, although to date the age-of-vines variable has been almost as important as geography. Zinfandel, though its roots are in Europe, is a true California original and the only California wine imitated abroad. It's also a variety of which there are still significant plantings of very old vines, in some cases dating back to the end of the 19th century.
Petite Sirah Facts
Dense blackberry fruit character, with notes of black pepper and tar
Steaks, roasts, and game
Even though the origins of this grape are in France, California is the place to look for the best expressions of Petite Sirah. The "Petite" in the name refers not to the size of the vines but rather to the size of the grapes. In fact, the high skin to juice ratio that accompanies the small berries allows Petite Sirah to produce wines with high tannins and acidity, components that give them the ability to age well.
The grape was first developed in the 1870s in France's Rhône region, the result of a cross between Syrah and a relatively minor Rhône variety, Peloursin. This rationale for this cross was to give Syrah a greater ability to resist mildew. But the resulting grape never really caught on in France, in part because the tendency to mildew was replaced by susceptibility to gray rot in the humid Rhône region. California's climate is considerably drier, and the grape tends to thrive there, from Mendocino all the way down to the Mexican border.
For a number of years, Petite Sirah was primarily used as a blending grape, thanks to its deep color and fairly intense tannins. Petite Sirah is frequently blended into Zinfandel for added complexity, body, and to tone down the tendency of zins toward "jammy" fruit.
More recently, the grape has been bottled as a single varietal wine. On its own, Petite Sirah forms wines with dense blackberry fruit character, mixed with black pepper notes, licorice, smoked meats and tar. Like other big, red wines from California, Petite Sirah pairs well with steaks, roasts, and game. We like the wines from EOS, Bogle Vineyards, and Rosenblum Cellars.