The 2009 Chateau Montrose earned a perfect 100-point score from Robert M. Parker Jr. The venerable critic has bestowed Montrose with four perfect scores from the 1989, 1990, 2009, and 2010 vintages, making it the crowning glory of the Saint-Estèphe appellation and one of the greatest estates in Bordeaux history.
Parker reckoned the 2009 was “one of the all-time great wines ever produced at Montrose,” deeming it perfect on three separate occasions. James Suckling's 100-point score left him “speechless” but he noted the wine was “better and cleaner than the great 1990,” which retails for upwards of $850 a bottle. In a Wine Advocate tasting of the 2009s from the bottle, Château Montrose outpointed Premier Cru giants Lafite Rothschild, Margaux, Cheval Blanc, and Mouton Rothschild, confirming our own opinions, and that of our friend Matt Deller MW who has said: “Château Montrose is one of those handful of classed-growth châteaux that have the terroir, resources, and determination to make First Growth quality wines. And in the best vintages in recent years such as 2009 and 2010, it has.”
As the mountain of critical acclaim makes clear, Château Montrose is among the Left Bank’s most extraordinary properties, with deep gravel terroir comparable only to Latour in the Médoc. Martin and Olivier Bouygues’ “Super Second” comprises a huge, single chunk of vineyard land, set right up against the estuary in Saint-Estèphe. The proximity to the soothing breezes off the Gironde protects vines from frost damage in early spring, and helps temper the summer heat, postponing the call to harvest, making for a consistent, terrifically concentrated blend.
Since 2006, when the Bouygues brothers purchased the château and began to pump millions into the vines and winery, Montrose has become the torchbearer of Saint-Estèphe. If ever a growing season script was written for the small appellation—and specifically Château Montrose—it would be 2009, with its dry heat and early start. Featuring the sumptuous structure and opulence to carry it well into the 2060s, this wine has already etched itself into the history books.
Montrose also boasts two legendary managers: Jean-Bernard Delmas, who came with 40 years of experience from Haut-Brion, fully retired in 2012, and his shoes were filled by the great Hervé Berland, who was previously at Mouton-Rothschild. Montrose has everything it needs, including an incredibly capable team. Serious Bordeaux collectors should not hesitate to stock this by the case in their cellar, as it will deliver incredible rewards over the decades.