2010 Baron de Ley Rioja Reserva 750 ml

Robert Parker’s 95-point Vintage and Decanter Magazine 95pt 2010 Baron de Ley Rioja Reserva

In our view, each publication has its strengths. Robert Parker, focused on the American audience, has made his mark on California and Bordeaux and is particularly strong in Tuscany and the Rhône, while covering every key and off-the-beaten path category one could think of. Decanter, the British high-brow publication guided by panels comprised of Masters of Wine, pays closer attention to wine routes that are most attractive to the Brits — Bordeaux, Australia, New Zealand, Champagne, Burgundy, and most remarkably, Rioja.

Speaking of vinos tintos, many of you have commented on the dearth of Spanish features on WineAccess. Why? When Spain’s economy collapsed under the weight of the European Common Market, most bodegas were obliged to tighten their belts in the vineyards and the cellars. Invariably, quality was negatively impacted by those belt-tightening measures.

But in the last few years, a handful of Spanish wineries have followed the lead of Vega Sicilia, spending into the financial storm. In a 2010 Rioja vintage that Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate rated 95 points and many in the region have called “the best in 50 years,” that commitment to quality was rewarded almost unimaginably.

Make no doubt about it: The most meticulously farmed and crafted 2010 Riojas are some of the finest wines ever to come out of Spain. In the case of a handful of bodegas, 2010 gave birth to the most extraordinary under-$20 bargains in the world. Leading the charge, not surprisingly, was Baron de Ley.

The 2010 growing season began with a very cold and wet winter, something the older growers claim is ideal for Tempranillo. As the cold killed vine pests, the dampness made for a high water table, essential for fending off hydric stress during the hot Spanish summers. July and August were hot at Baron de Ley, bathing the high-elevation vineyards in sun as steady breezes cleansed the vines, keeping clusters dry and healthy. In September, just as we saw in France, the sun shined but the temperature dropped. Cool nights slowed down the maturation process, allowing for extended hang-time. At harvest, the berries were small, sugars high, and tannins perfectly ripe, while acids remained firm and vibrant.

The 2010 Baron de Ley Rioja Reserva may well be the greatest under-$20 red wine on the European market. Brilliant purple to the edge. Dusty, complex aromas of crushed black fruits, violets, and sweet spice, laced with cedar (plenty of new oak here). Rich, juicy, soft, and silken in texture, filled with an almost New World black-fruit core, yet still wonderfully mineral and restrained like fine Bordeaux, finishing with sturdy, ripe tannin backbone. Drink now-2022.

95 points from the Decanter Magazine panel, including MW Sarah Jane Evans. $25 on release. Just $18 today — ONLY on WineAccess!