2010 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse De Lalande Pauillac 750 ml

Cabernet takes the wheel in this “Super Second”

Ever since Robert Parker rocked the wine industry by announcing that he’d no longer be tasting young Bordeaux at the spring barrel-tastings, prices for the fabulous 2009 and 2010 vintages have skyrocketed. Savvy Bordeaux collectors have let us know that our efforts to secure these rare prized bottles at a discount are not in vain. So take note: There just aren’t many of these bargains to found anymore. Not like this one.

If you’ve been following the surging market, you’re probably familiar with the story behind Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande — it’s a good one. Wine Spectator called Pichon-Lalande “one of the Left Bank’s top performers,” one worthy of a true “super second.” It reached the zenith in Parker’s historic reviews of the estate’s remarkable 1982, “unquestionably the finest Pichon Lalande I have ever tasted” and “one of the monumental wines” of the 20th century, earning a perfect 100 points from the world’s most influential wine critic on multiple occasions.

Shortly before the 1855 Classification of Bordeaux, Jacques Pichon Baron de Longueville died and his domain was divided among his heirs. His eldest son, Raoul, inherited what we’ve come to know as Pichon-Longueville Baron, whereas the Baron’s daughters inherited the remainder. Virginie, the beautiful wife of the Henri Comte Raymonde de Lalande, outlived her sisters Gabrielle and Sophie, a talented painter and poet, and their combined estate created what’s come to be called Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande.

Pichon Lalande remained in Virginie’s family until 1925, when it was bought by the Miailhe brothers, descendants of well-known Médoc producers. Edouard Miailhe’s daughter, May-Eliane de Lencquesaing, the wife of a general in the French army, took charge in 1978. It was on her watch that Pichon Lalande achieved its global acclaim, including Parker’s 100-point pinnacle for the 1982.

In 2007, de Lencquesaing sold her beloved domain to the Rouzauds, owners of Louis Roederer and its prestige cuvée, Cristal. She knew the property would remain in good hands, and cited the Rouzauds’ knowledge of the wine industry in choosing them over another potential buyer. Such faith was justified when the Rouzauds installed the former director of the top-performing Château Montrose, Nicolas Glumineau, as general manager — and the scores have been steadily climbing.

In the years since the Rouzauds assumed ownership, we’ve noticed a remarkable change in the texture of Pichon Lalande. But we’re not the only ones paying attention. Little by little, Cabernet Sauvignon has become the more dominant varietal in what was historically a Merlot-heavy blend. Robert Parker and then his Bordeaux protégé, Neil Martin, have written in The Wine Advocate about the ascendance of Cabernet in the blend, with “very expressive” Cabernet “in the driving seat” of recent vintages. “Under Nicolas Glumineau, this Pauillac estate is really beginning to ‘motor,’” the Advocate writes, putting it “within touching distance of the First Growths.” With the most recent 2014 and 2015 vintages earning 93-95 and 95-97 points from Parker, we smell a price hike coming.

Parker was at least as impressed with this 2010 Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, which he awarded 95+ points and found “performing extremely well.” The 2010 growing season was Bordeaux’s second consecutive drought year, but unlike 2009, while hardly any rain fell on Pauillac, there were no significant heat waves in 2010. June was warmer than 2009, yet there were more cloudy days. July was hot and dry. Then came the marvelously mild yet sunny months of August, September, and October, that proved miraculous for the Cabernet Sauvignon of Pauillac.

In 2010, this “super second” growth produced a beautiful, classic expression, on par with that of a First Growth Pauillac. The 2010 Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is dark ruby with purple highlights. Fresh and precise aromas of blackberry, graphite, and wild herbs are tinged with new-wood cedar and espresso notes. Full-bodied and powerful with silky smooth black cherry and blackberry fruit, classic Pauillac crème de cassis and tobacco spice notes. Robust tannin and a fine line of acidity rounds out a truly unctuous, lush wine. Parker was floored by its “fat mid-palate” that was “more savory, broader and more expansive” than when he tasted in barrel. He suggested cellaring this 95+point wine until at least 2050!

With prices for the fabulous 2009 and 2010 vintages soaring since Parker’s fateful retreat from the spring barrel-tastings, you won’t find better bargains on 2010s from Bordeaux’s elite anytime soon. But these are exactly the times our long relationships and many years on the wine trail pay off for WineAccess members.

Elsewhere: $299. $245 per bottle, drawn directly from the cellar in Pauillac. As supplies continue to dwindle in Bordeaux, 200 of Pichon Lalande’s remaining bottles are up for grabs. Shipping included on all orders.