2010 Dinastía Vivanco Rioja Reserva 750 ml

From Wine Spectator Top 100 to “the greatest Rioja vintage in 50 years”

Under the direction of enologist Pedro Vivanco, Dinastia Vivanco has become one of Rioja’s most important estates, a sprawling 440-hectare property set on the undulating hills around Briones. In a critical shot heard all over Spain, Vivanco wowed Wine Spectator in 2011, earning a slot on the magazine’s list of the Top 100.

But, as on all of the world-class properties of Rioja, the 2010 harvest — rated the “best in 50 years” by Wine Spectator — would enable Pedro Vivanco and his sons to craft the most extraordinary Rioja of his career, a Reserva that once again brought the Spectator to its knees.

Here’s why.

The 2010 growing season began with a very cold and wet winter, something the older growers claim is ideal for Tempranillo. As the cold killed vine pests, the precipitation made for a high water table, essential for fending off hydric stress during the hot Spanish summers. July and August were hot at Dinastía Vivanco, bathing the vineyards in sun as steady breezes cleansed the vines, keeping clusters dry and healthy. In September, just as we saw in France and northern Italy, the sun shined but the temperature dropped. Cool nights slowed down the maturation process, allowing for extended hang-time.

The 2010 harvest at Dinastía Vivanco was entirely conducted by hand. The Reserva selection process was rigorous, both in the vines and on the sorting table. Berry size was small. Sugars were high. Brown seeds made for ripe, soft tannins, as acids remained firm.

After we evaluated over 100 Rioja Reservas from 2010, it’s important to note that while nearly every top-notch estate shined, the style of the wines of ranges from elegant and fragrant to deep, dark, and bold. If your palate preference leans towards the former, Pedro Vivanco’s stunning 2010 Reserva may not be in your sweet spot. But if, on the other hand, you’ve fallen in love with this one-of-a-kind harvest in northern Spain for its depth, power, and muscle, the 2010 Dinastía Vivanco Rioja Reserva ranks among the top-rated under-$20 wines of the year.

Deep, dark ruby-purple. Gorgeous aromas of black and red fruits, black cherry, chocolate, and toasted vanilla bean. Rich, plush, and silken on the attack, filled with black-fruit preserves, weighty and dense, finishing soft and pliant with just enough dusty-tannin backbone to keep the tremendous opulence of the 2010 vintage in check. Drink now-2020.

$25 on release. $18 this morning. Sorry in advance — just 1,200 bottles are up for grabs.