2010 Lelarge-Pugeot Les Charmes de Vrigny Premier Cru Extra Brut 750 ml

Behind Champagne Lelarge-Pugeot is a conscientious family of growers who have been making wine in the Marne Valley’s Premier Cru village of Vrigny since 1799.

Vrigny has become very well known for its Pinot Meunier. This is in part thanks to Egly-Ouriet, but also due to the efforts of the Lelarge family, who have been domaine-bottling since 1930 but bottled their first 100% Meunier wine in 2010. Back in 2000, husband Dominique Lelarge and wife Dominique Pugeot resolved to abandon all herbicides and pesticides in the vineyard. Their winery was certified organic by ECOCERT, and today is fully biodynamic, certified by Demeter, one of only 44 properties in Champagne so accredited.

This wine came to us from our genial friend and colleague Clémence Lelarge-Pugeot—she’s Dominique and Dominique’s eldest daughter, and she also happens to live in Sonoma County. She’s landed multiple placements at MICHELIN three-star SingleThread in Healdsburg, not to mention fashionable tables like The Plumed Horse and Angler. Her efforts have made this biodynamic grower something of an insiders’ house up and down the West Coast.

Our tasting panel was floored by the 2010 Les Charmes de Vrigny Premier Cru Extra Brut. To be able to savor a 13-year old vintage extra brut—with 10 years on the lees—for well under $100 is a special treat. It comprises 50% Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, and 20% Chardonnay. Sporting a medium lemon color, time has given this savory notes of soy, bread dough, lemon butter, and nori. It's broad and expansive on the palate, with almond cream and hot chocolate flavors and a sherried finish. A “wow” Champagne for sure, excellent for any special night.