2011 CVNE (Cune) Imperial Gran Reserva Rioja 750 ml

The sun was blazing as we pulled out of Madrid on our way to Haro, the wine capital of Rioja. A bit too much jamón and a few too many cañas the night before were slowing us down, but as we climbed in elevation and the air cooled off we felt our energy returning and our excitement building. In a few short hours we would get to taste Cune’s stunning 2011 Imperial Gran Reserva, Wine Enthusiast’s #5 wine of 2019. 

Made only in the most outstanding vintages, the Imperial Gran Reserva is a world-class wine, on par with the greatest bottlings from Napa, Bordeaux, and Tuscany (and far outpacing them in terms of value). Brimming with luscious, velvety dark fruit etched with savoriness from tobacco, black olive, and Asian spice, the 2011 Imperial Gran Reserva showed pure class, confidence, and the tertiary brilliance of a perfectly cellared bottle.

As Wine Enthusiast wrote in its 97-point review, “this delivers all one can ask for from Rioja.” Our allocation is small but mighty, and six-bottle orders will be delivered in the original wooden boxes, straight from the cellars in Haro.

In Rioja, the mere mention of the name “Cune” is enough to convey the highest sense of quality. But within Cune’s renowned portfolio, the Imperial Gran Reserva is unique. It’s crafted in its own dedicated winery, with no expense spared in its production, from the manual harvesting of the 40-year-old-plus vineyards in Rioja Alta, to two selections of fruit, to the 24 months of aging in American and French oak, before two more years in the bottle prior to release, which gives the crimson wine incredible spice character and depth of flavor.

Cune’s 2004 Imperial Gran Reserva became the first Spanish wine named #1 wine of the year by Wine Spectator, and the 2011 is close behind. Antonio Galloni hailed the 2011’s “excellent depth and energy,” adding that it “melds richness and vivacity with a sure hand and finishes with lingering sweetness, fine-grained tannins and a touch of smokiness.” Cabernet lovers will enjoy the broad structure and chewy tannins present in Tempranillo, the main component here, and will find this equally ageworthy. But unlike in Napa Valley or Bordeaux, where the top bottlings fetch a minimum of $150, Rioja’s finest expressions haven’t caught up in terms of price. At $60 per bottle, this represents one of the world’s top quality and top value wines.

Cune is owned by Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana, which goes by the acronym C.V.N.E. Founded in 1879 by the Real de Asúa brothers, C.V.N.E. has been steered by only six head winemakers in 140 years of production. Today, the company continues to evolve, embracing modern winemaking techniques while maintaining their strong connection to the past. 

Towing that same line is the 2011 Imperial Gran Reserva. Its blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo is classic for Rioja, while new cellar techniques, like chilling the fruit before fermentation, create subtle dimensional changes that allow for full expression of the area’s terroir, a decidedly modern approach. 

We toured the winemaking facility, and unsurprisingly, found it absolutely pristine. Every piece of equipment from the floor to the vats was spotless, reminding us of the interiors of Harlan Estate or Vega Sicilia. This attention to detail flows into the glass, showing a level of polish and elegance found only in the world’s finest bottles.

We wrapped up the day with a few handshakes and hugs and headed back to Madrid that very same night, contenting ourselves with just a few slices of tortilla española for dinner. The prize had been won and 48 six-packs were soon bound for the U.S. on a temperature controlled container. After almost ten years of cellar aging, there’s no need to wait to pop a cork. But if you want to aim for 20 years, be our guest, these beauties are built for the long haul.