2011 Knez Winery Pinot Noir Cerise Vineyard Anderson Valley 750 ml

The Anderson Valley Land Grab

Twenty-five years ago, Anderson Valley was California’s best-kept secret. Even the most ardent Pinot Noir collectors refused to make the 100-mile drive from the Golden Gate Bridge to the sparsely populated hillsides above the small towns of Boonville, Philo, and Navarro in the northwestern quadrant of Mendocino County.

In 1992, Williams Selyem surprised many when it produced its first single-vineyard Pinot Noir, drawn off of Anderson Valley’s Ferrington Vineyard. Then it was the brilliant Ted Lemon, whom we first met in the late 1980s at Guy Roulot in Meursault, who followed Williams Selyem’s lead, with a spectacular Littorai release off of a vineyard aptly named “One Acre.”

Only in the last decade has the tide has shifted. Sonoma’s greatest Pinot Noir-makers have turned their attention to this unique spot, drawn by the cool microclimate, steady breezes off the Pacific, and high-elevation hillside plantings. Joining Littorai and Williams Selyem have been Wells Guthrie at Copain, Matt Licklider and Kevin O’Connor at red-hot LIOCO, Eric Sussman at Radio-Coteau, Knez, and Anthill Farms, each turning out a few barrels per year of Sonoma Coast’s most sought-after single-vineyard Pinot Noirs.

Arguably the two most extraordinary Pinot Noir vineyards in Anderson Valley — Cerise and Demuth — were purchased by Peter Knez in 2007 and 2008. In the cool, extended 2011 growing season that gave birth to fabulously aromatic and elegant Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, winemaker Anthony Filiberti (of Anthill Farms) turned out a magnificent Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir.

The 2011 Knez Pinot Noir Cerise Vineyard is one of the finest coastal Pinot Noirs of the vintage. Brilliant ruby to the rim. Piercing aromas of cherry, raspberry, anise, and sweet spice. Delicate, juicy and finely delineated on the attack, filled with black cherry preserves, wild strawberry, and a sprinkle of white pepper. Strikingly Burgundian on the finish with delicate if present tannins and superb acid cut. Drink now-2026.

93 points from Antonio Galloni. $48 on release. $29 this morning — for reasons we still don’t quite understand. Shipping included on 4.