2012 Bodegas Carlos Serres Rioja Gran Reserva 750 ml

They say it about the world’s great athletes, and we’ll say it about the 2012 Carlos Serres Gran Reserva Rioja: It’s got the measurables AND the intangibles.

That means that before we knew its incredibly impressive points-to-price ratio, this stunning red won us with its undeniable WOW factor: a bouquet bursting with fragrant red fruit aromas, accented by layers of tobacco, well-worn leather, and exotic spice. 

This is classic Gran Reserva Rioja at its best, balanced and harmonious after three years each in barrel and bottle, built on perfectly integrated tannins—in other words, profoundly satisfying from the first inhale to the very last sip.

The gorgeous Gran Reserva character that won us over did the same for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, which gave it a hot-off-the-press (Oct. 2020) 92-point rating—no real surprise when you consider the particulars: Estate-grown by an iconic producer in Rioja’s outstanding 2012 vintage, it was harvested from 35-year-old vines before being given that ultra-patient cellar treatment. 

Carlos Serres the man came from Bordeaux in the late 19th century, after phylloxera had devastated the wine industry in the Médoc. Finding the perfect terroir to make Bordeaux-style wines, he settled in Haro and set up shop—not just as a winery, but as one of the region’s first exporters. In 1907, he established the Rioja Wine Exporters Syndicate, a forerunner to the modern Rioja Designation of Origin Control Board, and by the early 20th century, his wines could be found in France, England, Cuba, and the US. 

The Serres winery has always had an eye afield, and they’ve had over a century to expand—but their wines still hail from the chalky-clay soils that caught the founder’s attention long ago. The 150-acre Finca El Estanque estate, located southeast of the famed town of Haro, is planted mainly to Tempranillo and includes Mazuelo and Graciano, both of which make it into the blend. 

After the grapes are hand-harvested from vines that average 35 years of age, they are fermented in concrete vats before retiring to a combination of French and American oak for a lengthy 36-month rest—a full year longer than is required. Another three years in bottle give the wine time to integrate and mellow, becoming everything you hope for when you see “Gran Reserva” on the label. 

Eight years after Rioja’s outstanding 2012 season, this wine sings with the glory of an outstanding vintage and will delight anytime you decide to pop a bottle. Given its unmistakable Gran Reserva seductiveness, we expect that to be often—so plan accordingly.