2012 Bodegas Resalte de Peñafiel Ribera del Duero de Restia Crianza 750 ml

Bodegas Resalte de Peñafiel Crianza is taking the world by storm as a critically acclaimed, near-flawless value Spanish red. Born in the rugged, high-altitude land of Vega Sicilia and Tinto Pesquera, this $20 steal captures the rustic glamour of this red-hot region, layering top notes of spice and orange peel over deep, rich bass notes of black plum, ripe red cherry, and licorice, all framed with cedar and big, fine-grained tannins. A heavyweight with dancer’s feet—think Muhammad Ali in his prime.

This cuvée has landed on the Wine Spectator Top 100 two years in a row, both times selected among the top 30 choices overall. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate calls the perfectly aged 2012 “quite impressive” and “quite attractive and easy to understand.” Wine Spectator declared it “lithe and energetic” while raving over the “outstanding reputation” of “this promising young estate.” After seven years, it’s beautifully integrated and velvet-smooth, yet has the structure to continue growing in stature over the next 5 years.

Rising to international prominence over the last two decades, Ribera del Duero is a region of harsh extremes. We have baked under its sweltering sun in mid-August, been revived only by a plate of paella and glass of crisp Verdelho, and warmed our toes by a wood fire while looking out over frozen vineyards blanketed with white snow. (Coming in from the cold to a bottle of this Crianza, a roaring fire, and a roasted rack of lamb is one of winter’s great pleasures.)

The wide variation in the region continental climate, as well as the ancient bush vines that have endured all the punishments Mother Nature can deliver, are what makes for the incredible concentration and complexity of this 2012. It’s culled from vines over 30 years in age, from low-yield sites at a soaring 2,500 feet in elevation.

Winemaker Enrique Andrades and his team make sure they enhance the natural elegance and power found in the grapes. The state-of-the-art winery uses no pumps or pipes, only a gravity-flow system to preserve delicacy and aromatic finesse. Fermentation tanks are keyed to specific vineyards and a three-week maceration maintains the fine nuance of the vintage. Aging is at least 14 months in 80% French and 20% American oak, achieving polish and beautiful cedar spice.