2012 Cinque Insieme Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 750 ml

2012 CREŌ Reserve … by another name

John Bugay made the introduction.

"Bugay’s neighbor, Peter Boyd, was awed by how Bugay had sculpted a phenomenal Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard on the western face of the Mayacamas mountains. Boyd asked Bugay to farm his 7-acre parcel as Bugay farmed his own." Not long after Bugay accepted the challenge, Boyd’s CREŌ was flying high, earning a 94-point review in just the third release.

With demand now far exceeding supply for his 1,000-case production, Boyd did what any owner of a piping-hot Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon brand would do. He raised prices.

At first, it was smooth sailing at CREŌ, as wholesalers and retailers stepped up to the plate, picking up small allocations on release. Boyd responded by investing aggressively in his vineyard. The 2008 and 2009 CREŌ Cabernet Sauvignons were magnificent — deep, dark, and brooding. With finished alcohol in the mid-14s, acids remained firm. But for us, it wasn’t so much the tremendous concentration of Boyd’s Cabernets that was so remarkable, but the ripeness and structure of the tannins. Along with Bugay and Arnot-Roberts’ Clajeux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, CREŌ seemed poised to take the Mayacamas to new heights.

But as we’ve said so many times to members who have emailed — asking for advice should they invest in vineyard land in Napa Valley — buyer beware! If the economy’s strong and the critics cooperate, growing grapes to 2 tons per acre on nosebleed slopes perched at over 1,800 feet in elevation might be viable. But in recessionary times, when wholesalers stop answering supplier phone calls in response to restaurant closings and retailer trepidation, all bets are off — as Peter Boyd would learn in the summer of 2011.

Two weeks ago, we received a call from a custom winemaking facility, asking if he could send us sample bottles of a 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. When we asked for more information, we were told that the Cabernet was drawn off a 7-acre parcel in the Mayacamas farmed by John Bugay. This estate-grown wine had been scheduled for a $75 release before the s**t hit the fan. Prior to shutting its doors, the winery was obliged to pledge its 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon against unpaid winemaking and storage bills.

When we asked the seller for the name of the winery, he didn’t miss a beat.

“CREŌ,” he said.

The 2012 Cinque Insieme Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is brilliant purple. Aromas of freshly cut flowers, black cherry, lavender, and sweet herbs. Rich and piercingly high-toned on the attack, primary, filled with a juicy mix of black currant, black raspberry, and violets, splashed with crème de cassis and a pinch of framboise liqueur, finishing with superb mountain cut, fine tannins, and terrific tension. Drink now-2025.

Compared to $75 on release. Just $24/bottle this morning for CREŌ … by another name. Shipping included on 4.